Mar 1, 2009

Arrondissement

n. – district
Paris, or the department zip code that begins with 75, is made up of 20 districts. Starting with the number 1 which is in the center of Paris near the Louvre, the districts circle around themselves in the pattern of a snail shell. So you can have the 8th arrondissement just next to part of the 16th and so on.

Each zip code ends with the number of the district so if you live in the 1st, your zip code would be 75001. There is an exception to that rule in the 16th, which because of its large size is divided into two zip codes, 75016 and 75116. I know this because we are now living in the one that ends in 116.

As with any city, areas are labeled by their residents and most people will try to sell you on the area they live in. I suppose this is normal because most people, unlike us at the moment, like where they live. Different areas have their own reputations, which like most stereotypes, are universally recognized.

The four most expensive areas are the 6th, 7th, pockets of the 4th (Isle St. Louis and the Marais) and pockets of the 16th. Ironically all of these areas are where we have ended up in one sense or another.

Our favorite hotel is located in the 6th, not far from the Montparnasse train station and surrounded by great shops and restaurants. We started our adventure here in the heart of Isle St. Louis, which is one of the oldest parts of Paris and still feels like it in its village like spirit. The apartment we just moved to is in the northern 16th near Place Victor Hugo, home of old money and foreign embassies. And the apartment I think we’ll be leaving it for is in the 7th, a lively area close to the Eiffel Tower that attracts a young, wealthy international crowd.

Not only are people very loyal to their areas, but there are very specific characteristics that will separate one part of an area from another. For example within the 16th, the northern 16th seems more acceptable. While chatting with a shopkeeper and resident of Isle St. Louis and explaining that we were moving to the 16th, she sniffed – “ca n’a rien a voire” meaning it’s nothing like here. I instinctively defended it by explaining it was the northern 16th which settled her somewhat.

Despite the fact that it’s located in the more favorable northern 16th, even the grand Avenue Foch gets dissected between the northern side of the avenue itself, which suffers from lack of sun (when there’s any to be had) and the southern side. So often it’s not enough to just tell people where you live, but rather specify the exact address or landmark that better pinpoints the location.

We have probably suffered from the fact that we didn’t really mind where we ended up as long as the apartment itself was comfortable. We cast our net too wide which resulted in collecting too much debris rather than sitting patiently in one spot and waiting for the best possible catch to come along. As such, we lost time that could have been spent settling in, but on the other hand, we gained a deeper understanding of the city and therefore will have a better appreciation for the place we will finally call home.

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